Glacier Bay

(Mostly copied verbatim from our journal)

 

Day 47, July 18--Bartlett Cove (Glacier Bay)--0 miles

David up about 1:30AM worried about habituated bear getting into our kayak, which we had left in grassy area above beach.  So...soon we were hiking down trail to move our kayak onto the kayak rack.  That entailed moving someone else's kayak from an upper slot to a lower slot, making room for our kayak on a top outer space.  Back in bed by 2:30AM where David slept soundly. 

Up at 7 AM to catch Lodge shuttle to Gustavus. The shuttle turned out to be full, so we hitched.  Took about 20 minutes to get ride in back of fisherman's pick-up.  First impressions of Gustavus weren't positive.  It's quite spread out and thus car-centric.  Balancing that is that a fair number of folks used bicycles and most everyone was quite friendly.  It grew on us. 

Breakfast at Clove Hitch Cafe—nice local atmosphere and perky young waitress Mariah.  Walked to Sunnyside Store and to library, but no librarian volunteer had shown up.  So walked 2 miles to Toshco grocery store.  Toshco is stocked from Costco in Juneau and the food is brought to Gustavus on the ferry.  The large packages and limited selection required some creative menu planning.     

Walked back to Sunnyside and picked up a few more things and then back to library for afternoon hours.  Sent out trip report email and a few others.  Hitched ride back to Toshco with young woman who grew up in Gustavus, getting ready to go to grad school in Illinois, friend of Kim Heacox whose book The Only Kayak we'd enjoyed reading earlier on the trip. 

Finished shopping for groceries.  A man about our age checking out behind us insisted on giving us ride back to campground:  George Ewing.  He moved up here from northern California 6 years ago and has been farming for 4 years.  Sells produce to tour boat that his wife works on as a naturalist.  Invited us to visit farm.  Packed bear canisters upon return—overwhelming.  Probably need 8 for all our food, but will get by with fewer.  Filled out registration.  Ate dinner of sloppy joe filling.  $2 shower at lodge and then back to tent to organize charts.  Day mostly sunny and quite warm.

 

Pearl contemplates loading of bear canisters, Bartlett Cove

 

At least one bear wasn't impressed by pepper spray (Visitor Information Station, Bartlett Cove)

 

 

Clove Hitch Cafe, Gustavus

 

Mariah, the perky waitress at Clove Hitch Cafe

 

Day 48, July 19--Barlett Cove to Strawberry Island (Glacier Bay)--8 miles

Up at about 8:50AM.  Had breakfast on beach as required by campground rules, and got off about noon after much back and forth with wheelbarrows.  Left kayak bags, wet suits, couple of plastic boxes in storage area provided by Park Service.  Packing with 7 bear canisters went pretty well with so much other stuff left behind. 

Met Brett, who along with Fred Del... had just paddled from Wrangell following a route similar to ours except not outside Kruzof or Yakobi and then had gone up the Lost Coast to Yakutat—found that part so challenging that they ditched going on to Cordova and are doing Glacier Bay instead. 

Made good time until south side of Beardslee Entrance.  Current too strong to paddle against. 

Came back to cobble beach on NW side of Beardslee and unloaded.  Reorganized bear canisters and had lunch.  Some light mist.  Heard loudest whale breaching yet because of echo—really sounded like reverberating shots.  Saw 1 other kayak, a couple in a tandem.  Power boats have gone up and down bay fairly regularly.  Overcast skies and low clouds obscure most of the mountains.  Much cooler than yesterday.  Calm.  Read plant ID pamphlets Linda Schmidt (of Sitka) had given us.  David figured out the common moss is spagnum of some variety. 

Ate dinner of canned salmon in ramen noodles a couple hours after lunch, then packed up and took off right at slack current.  Current quickly changed and became strong on flood flow.  Came about 2 miles to nice beach on Strawberry Island.  Lots of bear sign—tracks at beach where we ate lunch and dinner and also where camped.  Soft sand, not sure if black or brown bears.  Nice mossy forest site.  Some bear trails.  Coolish, but basically comfortable temp.

 

Heading into Glacier Bay, trees give way to bushes and glacier-carved rock

 

Day 49, July 20--Strawberry Island to Hugh Miller Inlet (Glacier Bay)--23 miles

A good night for both of us.  Up to alarm at 6 AM in order to take advantage of flood current.  Off at 8:10AM.  Had current with us about half hour, then against us a good bit of the day.  Both feeling like we paddled and paddled and seemed to get nowhere.  Weather forecast was for south wind 15 knots, which would have been perfect for sailing.  Actually had north breeze most of day, though mostly died in afternoon.  Drizzle started in late afternoon, with fog. 

Saw whales and heard them a lot in AM, but by afternoon hardly at all.  Quite a few birds, gulls flying up and down by, large flock of scoters, but few marine mammals.  Saw black bear briefly in AM along shore.  Forests decreasing dramatically as we go up the bay.  Now mostly alder and cottonwood, with a few conifers mixed in. 

Few beaches, mostly rocky shores, often very steep.  Had a hard time finding camp.  Finally stopped about 7 PM on cobble beach covered with mussels at low tide.  Found spot for tent, with tarp over it in scrubby alder woods.  Raining gently now just after getting in tent.

 

Chilly, wet paddling up Glacier Bay

 

Day 50, July 21--Hugh Miller Inlet to Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)--18 miles

Showers in the night, but woke to splendid sunshine.  Awake at 6 AM spontaneously.  Slow start.  Off at 8:45AM, with fog and clouds setting in.  Rounded corner into West Arm and contrary current.  Soon misting and light-to-moderate headwind.  Contrary current, intermittent drizzle and headwind continued all day.  Bits of ice floating in water throughout day and increasing in number. 

Conifers continue to give way to alders.  Scenery becoming more dramatic, especially looking up Johns Hopkins Inlet.  Saw couple of  seals. 

Two kayakers in double just before Reid Inlet, then group of 10 on guided trip camped on east side of Reid Inlet.  Camped on west side near old Ibach cabin site.  Little left of cabin.  Entirely collapsed, but 3 spruce trees there still growing.  Rain falling as we write.  Patches of wild flowers abundant nearby, mostly Indian paintbrush, also strawberries, some ripe and very tasty.  Recent bear tracks in area.  Camped on gravel.

 

Scenery becomes more dramatic up the West Arm (Glacier Bay)

 

Reid Glacier (Glacier Bay)

 

Pearl fixes dinner with Reid Glacier in background (Glacier Bay)

 

3 spruce trees mark site of old Ibach cabin, Reid Inlet  (Glacier Bay)

 

Pink and yellow Indian paintbrush, Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Dwarf fireweed, Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Wild strawberries, probably the best we've ever tasted anywhere, Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 51, July 22--Reid Inlet to Chocolate Falls (Glacier Bay)--13 miles

Rained gently but steadily most of night.  Hadn't put up tarp due to lack of trees for ridgeline.  By 7 AM, when we woke up, rain had stopped, but tent still very wet outside and inside with condensation.   Took leisurely morning and laid out rain fly to dry—almost dry by the time we left.  Still cloudy, though no rain, not even mist.  Walked around looking at flowers and picked more strawberries.  Some of the best we've ever had. 

Finally left at 10:25AM after one of our longest carries ever—cobbly, with glacial silt coating everything at low tide.  Pleasant morning, not too much wind or current when we started.  Paddled up close to Lampugh Glacier which was mostly at water's edge at high tide.  As we paddled away we heard a couple explosive cracks. 

Lots of ice chunks as we came into Johns Hopkins Inlet, though not too difficult to steer through.  Boat motoring out as we paddled up inlet.  Met German couple in rental kayaks just leaving beach at Chocolate Falls.  Fairly stiff headwind last half mile or so.  Pearl walked over to falls and stream, David napping.  Johns Hopkins Glacier very active.  Lots of percussive roars and falling ice chunks.  Grizzly tracks in sand—probably from today. 

 

Sky begins to clear, upper West Arm (Glacier Bay)

 

We meet our first iceberg in the West Arm of Glacier Bay

 

The shapes of icebergs become more interesting (Glacier Bay)

 

And the icebergs become bigger.  Lampugh Glacier in background. (Glacier Bay)

 

Looking up Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Meltwater pours from hanging glaciers, Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Grooves in bedrock left by retreating glacier, Johns Hopkins Inlet  (Glacier Bay)

 

We reach camp at Chocolate Falls in Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Graphic evidence of the steps required to schlep kayak and gear at every camp.  Chocolate Falls, Johns Hopkins Inlet  (Glacier Bay)

 

12,726' Mt. Crillon towers over the head of Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 52, July 23--Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)--0 miles

Slept in until 8:45AM.  Mostly cloudy, patches of sun.  Light breeze down inlet.  Had breakfast on intertidal area, then bathed in frigid water from Chocolate Falls and did laundry.  Did a few maintenance tasks, then hiked, looked at bear and goat tracks, watched black-legged kittiwakes feed in Chocolate Falls stream as it entered inlet.  Not sure what they or the seals covering the ice floes are eating. 

Had lunch, lay down awhile, then paddled against strong down-inlet wind to about quarter mile from glacier face.  Small calving, but no major ones and hard to take pictures because constantly had to paddle to keep kayak in place.  Coming back to camp hardy needed to paddle.  Passed many seals on icebergs.  Many bergs now beached below tent.  Chilly wind.  David wearing 2 pairs long underwear, plus rain pants, jersey, plus 2 fleece jackets, rain jacket and balaclava—and comfortable in that.  Had hoped to go back to glacier face if wind subsided, but too chilly and breezy for comfort.

 

Camp at Chocolate Falls, Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Chocolate Falls, Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Pearl goes through bear canisters, Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 53, July 24--Johns Hopkins Inlet to Reid Inlet--15 miles

Up about 7:30AM to paddle up to glacier face again.  Ice chunks lining beach, so had to carry kayak all the way to stream outflow for Chocolate Falls.  Light down-inlet breeze, but easy paddling except for navigating around ice.  Got up to within quarter mile of glacier face and little to no breeze there, so could sit and watch activity.  Not a lot of major calving, but one tower fell just after Pearl had commented that it looked like it could go at any time.  Sat in kayak watching for 1-1 ½ hours and then threaded our way through icebergs back to camp. 

Some sprinkles on way back, so took camp down first and then ate breakfast.  Ice still lining shore, but were able to push our way through and launched about 12:30PM.  Much of inlet clogged with ice.  Dodging through ice for 4-5 miles.  Had seen no boats or other people in inlet while camped, but saw powerboat, sailboat and National Geographic boat near entrance as we were leaving. 

Light drizzle off and on.  Winds light and variable.  Paddled to Reid Inlet, where met NPS biologists near west spit.  Asked them what kittiwakes would be eating where stream enters inlet—said they eat small crustaceans and probably find them where water is roiled up. 

Camped on east spit.  Not raining when we arrived, but put up tarp with paddles and now raining gently but steadily.  Took walk after set-up to look at wild flowers—spectacular stands of paintbrush and spreading blue bells.

 

Piece of Johns Hopkins Glacier falls into inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Creating a large splash and waves in Johns Hopkins Inlet  (Glacier Bay)

 

Harbor seals on iceberg, Johns Hopkins Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Flowers near shore of Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

More flowers near shore of Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Amazing flower about 5' in diameter.  Sea bluebells we think. Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Paddles support tarp when there are no trees.  Reid Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 54, July 25--Reid Inlet to west of Tidal Inlet (Glacier Bay)--13 miles

Rained during first part of night.  Tarp set-up with paddles worked very well, and glad to have the protection.  Woke about 8:30AM.  Located and fixed hole in David's Thermarest after breakfast. 

Off shortly before noon, after very low tide shortly before.  Light following breeze and soon had sail up.  Eventually a sailboat caught up with us and appeared to be shamed into raising their sail and shutting off their engine. 

At Gilbert Peninsula we cut across West Arm, meeting tide rip close to north shore.  Rounded east end of long bare rock prominence, past fine cobble beach and up short estuary filled with salmon schooling up, but not running yet. 

Decided to camp on beach about 5 PM.  Excellent camp.  Oyster-catchers and Harlequin ducks along shore.  Lots of bear trails and sign, but no bears so far.  As writing this heard growling sound and jumped out of tent—seals eating salmon at mouth of estuary.

 

David checks out bird book while sailing in light following breeze, West Arm (Glacier Bay)

 

Stream teeming with salmon near Tidal Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 55, July 26--West of Tidal Inlet to Caroline Point (Glacier Bay)--15 miles

Raining by the time we woke at 7:30AM.  Took tent down during a break in the rain.  Ate breakfast with tarp draped over us, which actually did work moderately well.  Finally ready to leave at about 10:45AM.  Rain had stopped by then.  Soon put sail up and were able to sail for half hour, but then wind died. 

About noon noted contrary current and went closer to shore where we picked up occasional counter currents.  While close to shore David heard twigs snapping and turned us around to see—sure enough a grizzly bear, which made its way along shore, ignoring us and foraging among shoreline plants.  We followed in kayak for probably 1-½ to 2 miles. 

Was a female (at least urinated at rear) and very quickly and determinedly made her way along shore.  When she came to a cliff, jumped in and swam without hesitation.  Past the cliff, she bounded out of the water and ran for about 1/2 mile.  At first we thought she had taken a sudden fright of us even though previously she had ignored us.    We think she was trying to warm up after being in the cold water. 

She ate devil's club berries with more gusto than anything else.  At closest she was probably only 20-30 feet from the boat.  In the water she was slow and not at all nimble.  She finally disappeared into trees above a beach  before Tlinket Point, which we finally rounded about 3:30PM. 

Went on around Sebree Island and up Muir Inlet a short distance.  Found nice spot on Caroline Point, which is a gravel spit.  Have tent site in trees on moss, with tarp strung.  Bugs, especially no-see-ums and some white sox in such swarms that we finally got up and walked to shake them as we drank our tea after dinner.  No rain rest of day after leaving, though remained mostly cloudy.  Lots of nice beaches and looked like good camping along this route. 

 

We get  a close-up view of a female grizzly cruising the shore near Tidal Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Devils club berries seem to be one of a grizzly's favorite foods (Glacier Bay)

 

Approaching an impassable cliff, the grizzly swims (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 56, July 27--Caroline Point to Wolf Point (Glacier Bay)--16 miles

At beginning of night, when Pearl already half-asleep, she heard wolf howling.  Woke David, a thrilling first for him.  Woke this AM about 8 AM to clear skies and sunshine and north breeze.  By the time we finished breakfast, packed and schlepped everything down long cobble beach at low tide, leaving about 11:30AM, the breeze had died, thankfully, though current still against us. 

Soon south wind sprang up and we were able to sail for a good bit of the afternoon.  Though current should have turned to flood (in our favor) it never really happened.  Almost the whole day had current down-inlet. 

Very few boats: 2 while eating breakfast, and 1 sport fisher running down-inlet while we were out.  Lost south wind about 4 PM but decided to paddle on.  Went on to Wolf Point, arriving about 6:30PM. 

David shortly announced onset of migraine as we hauled kayak up and we set up tent ASAP and he now sleeps.  Beautiful views of Chilkat Mountains.  Long-tail duck floating just off shore.  Black oystercatchers on beach.  No-see-ums, mosquitoes and more. 

 

Throughout the trip we rely on kelp to show us which way the current is flowing (Glacier Bay)

 

Stopping for the day near Wolf Point, Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Black oystercatcher, a comical-looking bird and one of our favorites, Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 57, July 28--Wolf Point to McBride Inlet (Glacier Bay)--2 miles

Few drips during night, but woke about 7:30AM to sun.  David feeling better, though washed out.  Had breakfast and were breaking camp when noticed 2 yearling grizzlies about half mile away across tide flats.  Gradually coming our way, and as we were breaking camp anyway, speeded up the pace a touch.  Bears eventually got within a 100 yards.  One stood up to look our way, and then they made their way through woods and came out on tide flat just north of us.  Did not appear to want confrontation. 

Off about 10:45AM, after enjoying watching oystercatchers and family of long-tailed ducks.  Down-inlet breeze and current, making it easy to decide to stop at McBride Inlet.  Current coming out of McBride Inlet at a good clip carrying ice bergs and bits.  German couple we'd seen leaving Chocolate Falls now just coming out McBride Inlet as we arrived. 

Paddled against current and got through with some effort, though somewhat disconcerting with icebergs floating all about.  Decided to paddle up McBride Inlet to glacier.  Many kittiwakes nesting on south side cliffs, also on north-side cliffs near glacier.  A few seals on icebergs.  Had lunch floating in front of glacier as David constantly paddled to keep us in place against down-inlet wind.  Little calving activity. 

After an hour and a half finally gave up and sailed back, stopping for water at stream mid-way down north side.  Camped on south side of entrance.  Lots of human and moose tracks.  Cut David's hair and trimmed beard—first time on trip—laborious job using tiny scissors. 

Day remained sunny and warm or cool depending on breeze.  This evening sat and watched pieces of ice breaking off icebergs and popping and snapping as they flowed out the inlet into the bay.

 

Two curious grizzlies approach near Wolf Point, Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Then they reappear near our camp, Wolf Point, Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

McBride Glacier (Glacier Bay)

 

Black-legged Kittwakes nesting in McBride Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Pearl schlepping bear canisters, McBride Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

David gets first haircut and trim of trip, McBride Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

We pose for camera at McBride Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Pearl watches parade of icebergs sailing out of McBride Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 58, July 29--McBride Inlet to end of Muir Inlet and back to Riggs Glacier (Glacier Bay)--17 miles

Wakened spontaneously about 6:30AM to totally clear skies and slack current in McBride Inlet entrance.  Waited for icebergs to clear.  Watched parade of icebergs exiting on ebb current while eating breakfast.  Then loaded boat on south shore of inlet entrance and headed out on glassy water to head of Muir Inlet at 9 AM. 

Arrived head of Muir Inlet at 12:30PM.  Saw no boats en route.  Diminishing trees and vegetation.  One Long-tail duck and a Kittridge murrelt, various kittiwakes, glaucous-winged gulls and black oyster-catchers along shores.  Heard 1 humpback early on.  Extensive thick mud flats at head of Muir Inlet.  David went ashore briefly.  Had hoped for glimpses of Fairweather Range on perfectly clear day but surrounding mountains too high. 

Sailed about 1 mile on return trip, during which time met sailboat Del Viento, which circled us, then skipper Windy offered beer which her daughter passed down to us in a fish net.  Also aboard were her husband Mike, daughters Eleanor, and Frances plus Windy's brother Paul and nephew Ollie. 

Wind soon died so back to paddling—hot--both paddling in shirt sleeves rolled up.  Saw Del Viento again at Riggs Glacier and decided to camp there.  They anchored for several hours and we had a chance to chat with them.  Girls brought us cookies.  Good site because breeze off glacier kept bugs down, but extensive mud flats at low tide.  Air warm into evening (now 8 PM and Pearl still in shirt sleeves).  Good view looking up at glacier. 

 

Glacier-carved mountains reflected in Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Muir Glacier at the head of Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Thick, sticky glacial mud at the head of Muir Inlet (Glacier Bay)

 

Sailboat Del Viento comes over to check us out and gives us a couple cold beers.  A very unexpected treat.  Then daughters Eleanor and Francis bring us some cookies.  Thanks!

 

Crew of Del Viento takes our picture.in front of Riggs Glacier (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 59, July 30--Riggs Glacier to Klotz Hills (Glacier Bay)--13 miles

Night clear and warmer than usual.  Up about 8 AM.  Quarter moon still in clear sky.  Great panorama of Muir Inlet on glassy water as we had breakfast.  Carry through glacial mud, slick and tenacious.  Spent at least 10 minutes cleaning soles of boots. 

Departed at 10:34AM in calm air, glassy water.  Favorable current for several hours. Watched bear from kayak in Nunatak Cove, not sure if grizzly or black bear. 

About 2 PM, as we lunched aboard on moldy second-rate bagels with PB & J, the wind started picking up from the south.  Became stronger and with opposing current kicked up a pretty steep, though not high, chop.  Decided to stop in lee of Klotz Hills and stretch and eventually decided to camp.  Another gorgeous panoramic view up inlet.  Nice gravel beach.  Bathed in clear stream and did laundry.  Lots of bear tracks on beach. 

 

Nice camp, great view near Klotz Hills (Glacier Bay)

 

Mussel shells above beach near Klotz Hills (Glacier Bay)

 

Day 60, July 31--Klotz Hills to north of Beartrack Cove (Glacier Bay)--22 miles

Up to alarm at 6 AM, quite foggy and fog thickened for a couple hours.  Ideal carry—short, gravel beach, no surge.  Paddled around Klotz Hills, which were extremely rugged and cliffy—beautiful in foggy conditions.  Current with us and made good time—calm, though forecast for south wind at 15 knots. 

In Adams Inlet, dumped moldy bagels overboard.  Also English muffins which we couldn't stand and had turned to crumbs.  Saw several parties of kayakers camped near Muir Point and on Garforth Island.  Paddled close to shore, especially as we came to shore where camping excluded because of bear activity around North and South Sandy Cove. 

Just south of South Sandy Cove, paddled into Wolf Creek estuary and watched wildlife for about an hour—2 grizzly cubs napping side by side, with mom about 100 feet away lying down facing them.  They moved into woods when detected our scent.  Trumpeter Swan made an appearance on tide flat, then flew gracefully away.  Harlequin ducks with babies, many glaucous-winged gulls.  Rather magical place. 

Upon leaving Wolf Creek estuary found Fairweather Range in clear view—magnificent.  Paddled on for another hour or so to another perfect beach: again, rounded gravel, steep enough to be a short carry, tent site on moss, fabulous panorama of Fairweather Range, salmon stream about 200 yards up beach. 

Put tent up and collapsed and read book for an hour, made dinner, then walked to stream.  Another grizzly sow with 2 cubs made brief appearance on beach north of stream.  Now sitting in shirt sleeves on rocks in intertidal watching the sun go down behind the Fairweather Range.  Saw inter-stadial stump near stream.  Perfect last evening out in Glacier Bay.  Sunset at 9:16PM.  Days getting noticeably shorter.

 

Leaving Klotz Hills camp in early morning fog (Glacier Bay)

 

Fog dissipates near South Cove (Glacier Bay)

 

Watching bears, gulls and swans at Wolf Creek estuary (Glacier Bay)

 

Fairweather Range rising to over 15,000 feet above Glacier Bay (Mt. Fairweather on right)

 

Stream and peak near our camp north of Beartrack Cove (Glacier Bay)

 

Interstadial stump severed by Muir Glacier centuries ago (Glacier Bay)

 

Sunset over Glacier Bay with Fairweather Range in background

 

Day 61, August 1--North of Beartrack Cove to Bartlett Cove (Glacier Bay)--17 miles

Up at 6:30PM after short night.  Read Walking Home last night until 11:30PM.  Somewhat sloping tent site, so Pearl bracing all night.  Foggy with light south breeze. 

Left about 9:10AM, paddled to Beardslee  Islands and through them with current mostly with us.  Saw black bear on shore.  About 100 harbor seals on NW side of Spider Island.  Out to Beardslee Entrance just after noon and caught current south.  Fairweather Range again resplendent as fog lifted and sunshine the whole afternoon.  To Bartlett Cove by 3 PM. 

Stored boat, set up camp, sorted food, returned canisters, took showers and did laundry.   Finished all that about 8 PM, chatted with couple from Anchorage with a Klepper folding double. 

 

Fairweather Range from Beardslee Islands (Glacier Bay)

 

Pearl enjoys dinner at Bartlett Cove after 2 weeks of paddling in Glacier Bay

 

Day 62, August 2--Bartlett Cove (Glacier Bay)--0 miles

Awakened about 6:45AM and walked to Lodge to see if shuttle running.  Twerp at desk said would be a charge of $10/person each way.  However, driver genially took us for free and we went out to Gustavus dock with the rest of the passengers before being dropped at Four Corners (center of town). 

Had breakfast again at Clove Hitch Cafe, where Mariah remembered us and asked about our trip—she's the personable young waitress and part of the local family who started the cafe four months ago.  Had a leisurely breakfast, then walked out to Harmony Farm where George Ewing showed us his amazing gardens and introduced us to his naturalist wife Lori. 

Walked to library and sat outside and finished book The Only Kayak until library opened.  Used all 3 hours library was open to send email update out, etc.  Pearl walked couple blocks to post office and sent box of books and the wetsuits back.  Hitched and walked to Toshco and got few food items for next leg to Hoonah. 

Walked out to hitch ride back when Lodge shuttle came past.  We waved and driver stopped and let us get on.  Spent some time in visitor center, dinner on shore, then back to Lodge briefly.  Not sure if we'll leave tomorrow or next day.

 

George Ewing of Harmony Farm shows us his greenhouses in Gustavus

 

Impressive produce at Harmony Farm in Gustavus

 

Nagoon berry, a local favorite in Gustavus

 

Day 63, August 3--Bartlett Cove (Glacier Bay)--0 miles

Slept late and looking at weather decided tomorrow a better bet for crossing Icy Strait.  Made a couple phone calls, then spent a long time in Visitor's Center book area, especially looking at natural history guides.  Took walk on Forest Trail and to lagoon.  Went to so-so evening talk. 

Felt really good to relax.  Chatted for a while with Gustavus couple Vince and Aimee, who had brought their Folbot Greenland II to Bartlett Cove to try a new sail rig.  Also chatted for awhile with Wayne Clark, the head of the backcountry office. Congratulated him on the friendly staff there.  Started to rain lightly during dinner. 

 

Wayne Clark, head of backcountry office at Bartlett Cove (Glacier Bay)

 

Glacier Bay Lodge at Bartlett Cove

 

Dining room at Glacier Bay Lodge.  Nice, but we preferred the local atmosphere of the Clove Hitch Cafe in Gustavus